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Chap 1-4 Fuselage
Chap 5 Nose Structure
Chap 6 Main Spar Construc
Chap 7-8 Cabin and Contro
Chap 9 & 13 Canopy/TDeck
Chap 10 Landing gear Syst
Chap 11 Wings and Winglet
Chap 12 Strakes and Fuel
Chap 15-16 Canard Constru
Chap 17-18 Engine Install
Chap 19 Cowling Construct
Chap 20A Surface Finish
Chap 20B Painting
Chap 21 Panel and Electri
Chap 22 FAA Inspection
Chap 23 Flight Testing
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Chapter 17 &18  Engine Installation
 
In December of 2011, I aquired my Engine.  Now I have to begin the preparation for mounting and hook-up.
 
JANUARY 2012
 
So now I have this Lycoming IO-360 from Air-Tec Inc in Orlando, FL.  First thing is to look it over and prep the engine for installation.
 
 
Above:  The first thing is that the standard Oil filter adapter has to go.  The ERacer mount only gives 8-9in of extra space behind the mount.  I will install a B&C 90 degree oil cooler adaptor.
 
 
Above: I have to cover the vacum pump pad.  The oil restricter fitting is installed on the right pic (blue nipple).   Top yellow nipple on the right pic is the breather outlet and the two under that are the inlet and outlet to the oil cooler.
 
 
Above left:  The engine with the stock oil filter adaptor off, the vacum pad covered, the fuel pump fittings installed, and the mag ignition wires installed.  The large blue nipple in the middle covers the mechanical tach entry. 
Above right:  This is a close up of the fuel pump (outlet, vent fitting, inlet).
 
 
Above left: This is the Precision Air Silver Hawk EX and the elbow used to mount horizontally. 
Above right:  The accessory casing with the (Gold) B&C 90 degree oil filter adaptor bolted on.  This ensures clearance on the firewall.
 
Above left:  Eracer engine mount.  Im using the ACS Heavy duty mount cups with AN7 bolts. 
Above right:  I fabricated the P-leads from Bendix terminal lead kits using the guidance from "Firewall Forward".
 
 
Dont ever let anyone tell you that you need multiple people to mount an engine.  I got this done by myself in about 2.5 hours.  It was a slow process but a little patience goes a long way. Here is a quick synopsis:
1.  Looking forward from the prop.- Using a hoist, I snugged the engine to the mount and put the Top inside mount biscuts into position ( the engine will hold these two in place) dont worry about the bottom ones yet. , a rope tied to the prop flange gave me the ability to adjust the horizontal alignment of the engine by looping the rope over the hoist arm and like a pulley, pull the engine up or down to adjust the engine deck orientation.
2.  Insert the top left (Port side) bolt. It will go in rather easily  Tighten that bolt to pull the engine in.
3.  Insert the top right (starboard) bolt the same way.  It goes in fairly easy but I did have to adjust the engine angle and height a bit. Now install the lower inside biscuts,  you might have to loosen the top right bolt a little. The weight of the engine should hold them in.  Tighten the top 2 bolts
4.  The next bolt is the left lower.  Now things get a little tricky.  I had to tighten the top left and loosen the top right, and also adjust the hoist height a bit.  Install the outer cup and bolt.  It finally did go in but was offset to the right. Now, all 3 bolts are going to have to be tightened to get the 3rd bolt into proper positon and line up for the forth bolt.
5.  The last bolt is difficult to say the least.  I used a long screwdriver to shift the cups a bit but the bolt would not go in.  I tried different combinations of loosening the other bolts and I finally took a long AN7 bolt and grinded it to a point.  This worked better to shift the cups just enough to get the 4th bolt in.  I had to screw it in using its own threads but dont bang it in,  you could damage the threads.  When it went in...I was very happy to say the least.  Then you have to check/adjust the torque on each nut/bolt and install the cotter pins.
 
Above left is the first bolt--- the Port Top and Above right is the last bolt---the starboard lower
 
 
Above left:  As you can see,  Its tight quarters by the firewall.  I did put a .75in spacer on the adapter to get more space for my accessory case outlets.
Above right: I installed the elbow on the Throttle servo and moved the fuel oulet to the alternate port which works better for my installation.
 
 
Above left:  Fuel injection servo installed with Elbow and Phenolic Spacer.
Above right:  Ground straps installed
 
FEBRUARY 2012
 
 
Above:  Making the paper templates.    I began the process of building cooling baffles from scratch.   I first made templates from poster board fit and cut...I looked at Cliff's and Tore's baffle pictures to help me as well as many builder sites on the net.
 
Above left:  This is one one the inner clylinder baffles.  I repositioned the one used for downdraft cooling to the upper side of the heads for Updraft cooling. 
Above right:  I took a break from the baffles to do some cowling surgery.  I first wrapped the engine for protection.
 
Above:  You can see the lower holes I cut into the lower cowling and the ones in the side of the upper cowling.  The ERacer engine sits a little lower that the Cozy. 
 
Above:  This shows the initial positioning of the glass cloth and the final new "cheek" on the lower cowl.
 
 
 
 
 
Above left:  I traced the paper templates onto .04 alum sheet and cut them out.  Then came the task of put on/take off/trim,  put on/take off/ trim....I initially left a lot of excess so I didnt cut too much off.
Above right:  This is a Positech Oil cooler,  I have decided to mount it on the upper firewall and have a dedicated air scoop to it.  This worked well for Tore's ERacer and since space is limited, It is about the only option for me.
 
Above left:  After determining a location and just how I was going to do this,  I had to make a mount to hold it in position.  Building an Airplane IS fun.
Above right:  Oil cooler mounted into position.
 
 
 Above left:  Making the scoop layup over a foam mold
Above right:  Initial hole for scoop location made in the upper Cowling
 
Above:  These are a couple pics of the scoop installed into the upper cowling as well as the oil filler access door cut out.
 
Above left:  This is my Gary Hertzler "Silver Bullet" propeller being painted at the factory.  I will be receiving it in March.
Above right:  I decided to modify the inner cylinder baffles to be more efficient.  I attached  an additional piece of sheet metal to the baffle next to the engine case to better seal the base of the heads.  
Above left:   This is the aft baffle as I was taking it on and off multiple times. 
Above right:  These are the right, left and forward baffle plates almost complete.
 
Above:  The right aft baffle plate being fitted and adjusted to the heads.
 
MARCH 2012
 
 
 
Above left:  The left aft baffle plate is being fitted to the #1 cylinder head.
Above right:  Complete aft baffle bolted together during trial fit.  Exhaust pipe baffle extensions will be added when I get my pipes.
 
 
Above left:  Oil filler door hinge and latch installed into upper cowling.
Above right:  Top cowl being fitted with baffling installed.  I will finish the aft baffle after the exhaust system is installed.
 
 
Above Left:  Fuel hoses from gasolator to pump to Servo.  The Earls fuel filter was later taken out because vibration at the T-fitting caused a fuel leak.  My gasolator is plenty of filter for the system anyway. (see the "ER Upgrades" Tab for a pic of the new config)
Above Right:  I didnt like the flat end of the air filter so I thought I would make it a little more aerodynamic for the inlet air.
 
Above Left: Oil cooler in place with Silicon seals for the scoop addition
Above  Center and Right: Forward baffles installed with wires and main fuel hose routed through.  I have chose to route the starter and Alternator wires over the top of the engine.  This works the best for me because they enter the engine compartment through the upper starboard side of the firewall.
 
Above Left: I had to rebuild my throttle quadrant making it wider and building a support into the armrest consul.
Above Right : I also had to modify  the armrest cover to accomodate the larger more efficient cable attachments.
 
Above left: Throttle cable attched to the servo.
Above right:  Mixture cable attached to the servo.
 
Above:  Cowling halves after all the cutting and adding.  Awaiting paint later after wing adjustments are done.
 
 Above: Re-fitting lower cowl....Waiting on the exhaust pipes, 2 more hoses, and 3 probe-type thermocouples to complete the main installation.
 
 APRIL 2012
 
 Above:  Installation of the Camloc grommets in the fuselage and the recepticles in the cowling lip using 1/8" rivets.
 
 
 
Above left:  Right Aft baffle with silicon being added
Above right:  Oil lines to the oil cooler installed.  Just need the exhaust pipes (in the mail)
 
 
  MAY  2012
 
 
Above left:  Exhaust pipes arrived in the mail...another installation project
Above right:  Probe type thermocouples Installed
 
Above:  Here are pics of the Left and right side pipes installed.  I still need to add an extra support to each side and adjust the cowlings a bit to match up.
 
Above left:  This is one of the support brackets that I added to the exhaust pipes on each side.
Above right:  The baffles with all the silicon seals added.  Still need to seal the pipes better with the cowling on.
 
 
Above left:  Cowlings are ready to be adapted to the wings now.  So off to the the new Hanger home!!  I will attach the wings and complete the cowls.
Above right:  I had to build a workbench and shelves at the new ERacer hanger.  Now to get the airplane in there on May 19th !!!
 
Above:  Moving day!!  After 15 years, I finally got the plane out of my garage and into a hanger.  My wife keeps forgetting to pull the car into the garage because she's never had one before!  It took a few loads to get it all out to Atlanta Regional Airport (KFFC).  3.1 miles and 8 min away.
 
Above:  After getting it all in the hanger, Me and my son-in-law began the task of installing the wings and canard.
Above:  We had to get a few pics after getting all the wings on.  Now about a thousand things to do still.
 
   JUNE  2012
 
 
 Above: These are the 5 ply lower attachment lips that I have layed up onto the wing root to attach the lower cowling.
 
 
Above:  So starts the major surgery on the upper cowling.  I made a new foam mold over the exhaust which matches up to the upper wing root.  Taped it up and layed glass on top.
 
Above left:  I then took the resulting glass shell and glassed it back onto the cowling.  I will reinforce it on the inside later.
Above-right:  Now I begin the left side of the upper cowling by making the foam mold.
 
Above left:  Newly made shell initially being glassed onto the upper left side cowling.
Above right: Right side upper cowling attachment lip being layed up. 
 
Above left:  New upper right wing attachment lip ready to drill.
Above right: Left upper wing attachment lip layed up.
 
Above left:  Drilled the holes for the the camloc recepticles.
Above right:  Recepticles riveted in on the upper and lower attachment lips.
 
 
Above left:  Aileron push/pull cable bolted into the wingroot.
Above right: Rudder cables connected at wingroot.
 
 
 Above: Propeller Installation in preparation for first engine run.
 
Above left:  Finally painting the Engine Cowling halves.  Just needs the Camlocs to complete.
Above right:  Layed up 6 ply pads and patterns for 2 trailing edge wings fences on each wing.
 
 
JULY 2012
 
 
Above:  Cowling is complete and attached for now.  I will add pieces around the pipes to better seal in the cooling airflow to the engine.  I will now do the weight and balance and then run the engine for the first time.
 
 
Above left:  I had to add another vent line from the header tank to the left main to facilitate a more rapid fuel suppy to the sump tank from the mains.
Above right:  Aircraft ready for first engine run!!!
 
ENGINE INSTALLATION COMPLETE.....FIRST RUN ON 16 JULY, 2012
(Video on homepage)
 
***  SEE Chapter 22  -  Inspection and testing  ***